Circular knit garment with added shaping material



H. KNOHL March 22, 1966 CIRCULAR KNIT GARMENT WITH ADDED SHAPINGMATERIAL 3 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed Dec. 5, 1961 R m E V m H. KNOHL March22, 1966 CIRCULAR KNIT GARMENT WITH ADDED SHAPING MATERIAL 3 Sheets$heet2 Filed Dec. 5. 1961 {mum M mm INVENIOR.

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United States Patent C) 3,241,340 CIRCULAR KNIT GARMENT WITH ADDEDSHAPING MATERIAL Herbert Knohl, Seneca, S.C., assignor to The KendallCompany, Boston, Mass., a corporation of Massachusetts Filed Dec. 5,1961, Ser. No. 157,208 The portion of the term of the patent subsequentto June 8, 1982, has been disclaimed 6 Claims. (Cl. 66-185) Thisinvention is concerned with a garments knitted by the so-called seamlessor circular single needle knitting system with provisions for knittingplain jersey stitches either alone or including patterned areas such asfabric incorporating plain jersey stitches, tuck stitches (for purposesof this invention, a stitch formed when a knitting needle takes on oneor more new loops while retaining the old loop, and then knits all offtogether) and floated yarn combinations. For purposes of this invention,the expression jersey knit shall include all such combinations. Theinvention is particularly concerned with seamless jersey knit garmentsincorporating elastic yarn inlaid into the fabric either to provide fit,to provide a therapeutic effect or to provide elastic stretch in an areawhere the body is permanently convex or at least is convex during bodyflexing. The invention is applicable to a wide variety of seamlessjersey knit garmets typical of which are stockings, anklets, socks andhalf hose in which the convex portion involved is the heel, elbowguards, knee guards and girdles in which the convexity is accentuated byflexing and other garments such as brassiers, bathing suits and the likewhere convex form fitting is involved. In all of these garments, unlessprovision is made for extra material where a pronounced convexityoccurs, the garment tends to bind or at least is considerably distortedand poor fitting when worn. In the elastic stocking field the solutionto the problem of providing extra material in the heel portion hasproven so elusive that present methods are a comprise. Extra material isadded in the convexity of the heel portion by reciprocation of theneedle cylinder. Unfortunately it is not practical at present to inlayelastic yarn during reciprocation using the seamless knitting machine,so that when the heel portion is reached and reciprocation is begun, theelastic yarns are terminated. If the only disadvantage of heelreciprocation in the inlaid elastic stocking field were the slowness ofthe process, it might be accepted as it is in the ladies seamlessstocking field as an unavoidable consequence in obtaining well fittingheels. But when elastic yarns must be terminated and then introduced asin inlaid elastic yarn stockings, the procedure requires very delicateoperation techniques. A large proportion of defects in such stockingsoccur therefore in the area of the heel and instep. In other fields theproblem of proper fit in one or more convex portions has caused jerseyknit garments with inlaid elastic yarn to be considered inappropriate.For example, seamless brassieres with inlaid elastic yarns have not beenprovided although strapless brassiers are in demand.

It is an object of this invention to provide a variety of jersey knitgarments wherein extra material is incorporated by continuous circularmachine movement in a convex portion together with an uninterruptedinlaid elastic yarn.

It is an additional object of this invention to pro- Vide jersey knitgarments with circular knit convex portions incorporation inlaid elasticyarn which garments are shaped to final limp form by thermal settingwithout destroying the elastic properties in the convex portions.

Other objects and advantages of the invention will be apparent from thespecification and drawings.

In the drawings:

FIGURE 1 is an illustration of a typical jersey knit foot coveringgarment of the invention incorporating added material in the convex heelin which inlaid elastic yarn is continuous.

FIGURE 2 is an illustration of a typical jersey knit knee guard in whichmaterial is added in the knee area while elastic yarns, are inlaidcontinuously through the area.

FIGURE 3 is a diagrammatic illustration showing how the elastic yarncontinues through the convex area and how extra courses are added in theconvex area. The illustration is directed specifically to a stockingstep and heel but applies equally as well as to a seamless girdle. V

FIGURE 4 illustrates diagrammatically how the invention is applied to aseamless brassiere in which elastic yarn is inlaid continuouslythroughout the band and extra material is added in the convexity of thecup portion. It is to be understood that in these diagrammaticillustrations the relationship of the elements is not realistic. Theactual fabric is more clearly illustrated in the swatches of FIGURE 5inclusive showing the elastic yarn inlaid in the knitted stitches.

FIGURE 5 illustrates an enlarged portion of fabric typical of thegarments of this invention showing a com bination of jersey stitches andtuck stitches.

FIGURE 6 is a modified cam ring layout for an A.M.F. machine showing thepath of the needle butts in forming a convex heel in accordance withthis invention.

The preferred method of terminating a course of the extra material addedin the convex area is by a tuck stitch. With some yarns, however,particularly with kinked yarns such as Helanca, it is not essential touse a tuck stitch. With such yarns the adjacent severed tails intertwineparticularly if they are left fairly long in the trimming.

At least two feeds are ordinarily used for inlaying elastic fabric. Bythe methods of this invention three feeds or more are used. For purposesof simplicity typical knitting operations will be described generallywhereas more specific descriptions are given in the examples.

In a typical three feed stocking operation of this invention two feedscarrying the welt yarns and the shadow welt yarns which are knitted inthe usual manner for ladies stockings. When the stocking boot isreached, one feed substitutes elastic inlay yarn while the othersubstitutes the yarn used in the structural stitches of the boot. Thethird feed which carries the yarn to be knitted as extra courses in theconvex heel portion is dormant. Prior to inlaying, the elastic yarn isknitted into one or more stitches with the welt or boot stitches to lockit in at the end. Similarly, before the elastic yarn is removed at thering toe it is moved from the inlay position to the knitting positionand is knitted into one or more stitches with the boot or ring toestitches. The boot of the garment is knitted in accordance with the nowwell known method decsribed in my United States Patent No. 2,962,885 nowreissued as Re. 25,046. The present method differs from that describedin my said reissued lpatent by the fact that the heel is knitted bycontinuous circular machine movement rather than by reciprocation.Furthermore, at the point where the heel was initiated by removing theelastic yarn in my said reissued patent, the elastic yarn is no longerremoved but rather continues as preferably does the boot structural yarninto and through the heel pocket area. The amount of elastic yarnmetered in is increased by about /2 inch over that metered in the ankleper round. Any of the well known yarn furnishing devices such as thatrepresented in the Boucraut Patent No. 2,441,118 may be utilized inmetering the elastic yarn. In addition, in accordance with thisinvention, a third feed comes into activity, knitting a partial courseby continuous circular movement of the machine between the regularcourses knitted by the other feed. This partial course may be knitted byutilizing one of several devices well known in the knitting art. Forinstance, long and short butt needles may be used with the yarn missingthe short butt needles in the instep portion and being knitted by thelong butt needles in the heel portion. Or a clocking device may be usedwhereby sections of the needles are caused to commence knitting insuccession. Alternatively, the individual needles may be controlled by asecondary pattern device operating in the heel section only. The extracourses alternatively may be merged in the instep stitches as tuckstitches using the Well known tuck forming procedures such as long latchneedles, pattern wheels, multi-cleaning cams, different lengths ofjacks, etc. then spread again to form the next partial separate coursein the heel area.

It is preferred where partial courses are added in the heel area toterminate such courses with a tuck stitch, or two or more tuck stitchesseparated by a float or knitted individual stitches. The yarn floatedacross the instep is trimmed leaving yarn tails on each side where theheel commences. The added courses may be any of a number of yarns. If anude heel is desired yarns similar to the yarns used in the knittedstitches of the boot may be used in the extra courses. If a soft cushionwith twoway stretch is desired, the added courses may be of stretch yarnsuch as Helanca. Where the latter yarn is employed the use of tuckstitches to lock the ends of the partial course is not required.

As an alternative to the above method, where the elastic yarn is inlaidin only every other course or, where more feeds are available, in everythird or fourth course, all the feeds knit in the boot portion withelastic yarn being laid in one course. When the heel and instep arereached one or more courses are eliminated in the instep while theycontinue in the heel portion, the course in which the inlay is placedand the inlay continuing in both the instep and the heel.

In some instances it may be desirable to utilize the principles of thisinvention by introducing elastic yarn only in the areas containing apronounced convexity. For instance, in a streetwear ladies stocking onemay introduce elastic yarn at a point just prior to knitting the heeland remove it after the heel is completed. The heel area may then beknitted with inlaid elastic yarn and with added courses by circularmotion. The elastic yarn in this instance would provide superior fit andstretchiness. Similarly, one might wish to incorporate elastic yarn onlyin the bosom portion of a circular knit shirt or bathing suit addingpartial courses in the convex portions only.

Referring once more to the drawings:

In FIGURE 1, the foot covering garment 10, only the foot 11 of which isshown, includes an instep 12, a heel pocket 13 in which the inlaidelastic yarns are continuous and in which the added material isincorporated by circular movment of the needle cylinder. The garment isshown with a ring toe 15 and a toe 14. Obviously, for purposes of thisinvention, it is immaterial Whether there is any toe in the garment andthe garment might be made with an open toe.

In FIGURE 2, the knee guard includes a jersey knit portion 21, a back ofthe knee section 22, a portion 23 with added partial courses and welts24 and 25. The elastic yarn preferably is inlaid in courses eitherthrough out the garment or from welt to welt in continuous fashion. Theelastic yarn may be restricted to those courses which are common to thearea 23 and t0 the corresponding back of the knee section, however.

In FIGURE 3, the diagrammatic figure shows how the elastic yarns 34continue through the heel and instep portion. It also shows how theadded partial courses 35 are knitted between the courses in whichelastic yarn is inlead. In the area of the instep 32 and the foot 31,added courses do not appear. This gives a pronounced and definiteshaping to the heel area. The same diagrammatic illustration may beapplied to a girdle with the added material giving a two-way stretcheffect, if a stretch yarn is used.

In FIGURE 4, one cup 43, a portion of the connecting link 41 and thebody band 42 of a brassiere knitted in accordance with the invention areshown. The staggered arrangement of the added courses 45 may be modifiedto change the contour of the cup. The elastic yarns 44 which, of course,are inlaid in continuous jersey knit courses, form with the knittedstitches a continuous elastic band which is properly contoured and whichis self-supporting. It is preferred where such garments are knitted ofthermoplastic yarns such as nylon to give finished shaping to the cupportions by heat setting methods which are well known. The preferredelastic yarn for such garmets is bare spandex but the elastic yarn neednot be thermoplastic and in fact where the knitted stitches are of anon-thermoplastic material such as wool, the shaping achieved by thecombined action of the added courses, the elastic inlay and the naturalconformability of knitted material, is wholly adequate.

While the illustration of FIGURE 5 shows elastic yarn in every courseand normally this preferably would be a continuous yarn, multiple feedswith multiple inlaying feeds might be employed. Obviously, it onedesired to inlay elastic yarn in every other course in the normal fabricand every fourth course in the convex fabric, the swatch would have anappearance similar to FIGURE 5 but with the middle elastic yarneliminated. Obviously, too, if one wished to knit most of the normalfabric with the elastic yarn inlaid in every other course, he couldchoose to have the elastic yarn in every other course of the convexportion and eliminate the extra course in the normal fabric between theelastic yarns which are common to both fabric portions.

In FIGURE 5, the swatch shown from the inside represents an alternativetransition structure from the convex fabric portion on the right to thenormal fabric on the left. The elastic yarns 61 may either be apreferred continuous yarn or the continuous yarns of separate feeds.Likewise the yarns 62a, 62b, 62c, 62d and 62e may be one preferredcontinuous yarn or the continuous yarns of separate feeds. Again theadded course yarns 63, 64 and 65 are knitted in the convex fabricportion and are tucked in two separated stitches as at 67 with thecontinuous yarn and knitted between the tuck stitches as at 68. Againthe floated portion of these extra courses across the normal fabricportion is trimmed to give tails as is indicated by 63, 64 and 65 at theleft. The terminations of these yarns at the right do not representtrimmed tails but rather that the convex portion continues on beyond theswatch illustrated.

FIGURE 6 illustrates the layout for a modified cam ring for the Scottand Williams AMF circular knitting machine. As furnished by themanufacturer to permit in,

laying elastic yarn, the cam ring layout was modified by making the leftclear cam 98 adjustable, by inserting a dividing cam 107 and bymodifying the intermediate jack clear cam 104 which was formerlytriangular to make it adjustable by the addition of a movable auxiliarycam 105. Intermediate jacks are selected so that alternate intermediatejacks are raised by cam 104 with cam 105 down and thus raise thealternate needles to the tuck position where they take elastic yarn.Intermediate needles are not raised by the intermediate jacks and hencethe elastic yarn passes over their hooks. These intermediate needles arelowered to the level of the sinker nibs by the dividing cam 107. Thepath of the needle butt-s is indicated at 108, the path of the alternateneedle butts at 109 and the path of intermediate needle butts at 110. Atthe right of the ring cam layout is shown the relationship betweenneedle 91, the. sinker 111, the intermediate jack 92 and the cylinderjack 93. Other parts of the layout which are named for orientationpurposes are the center stitch cam 94, the right-hand needle loweringcam 95, the left-hand needle lowering cam 96, the center clear cam 97,the lefthand clear cam 98, the left-hand stitch cam 99, the righthandpicker 100,.the left-hand picker 101, the dropper 102, the jack raisingcam 103, and the needle lowering cam 106. For purposesof easyidentification, the modifications necessary to convert the AMP machineso that it will knit stockings in accordance with this invention areindicated by letters a to e. These modifications are explained inExample H.

The preferred products. of this invention are knitted with thermoplasticyarns such as nylon in the knitted stitches and utilizing thermoplasticelastic yarns such as bare spandex for the inlay yarn. After suchgarments are knitted they are stretched over a form and heat set tofinal shape. This heat-setting operation does not destroy the elasticproperties of the inlay yarn. The heat setting temperatures of mostknitting yarns are well known but if a new thermoplastic yarn isutilized whose heat setting temperature is not known. If this. provestoo low to obtain proper setting, the setting temperature should beraised by increments until proper temperature is reached.

Garments which are knitted. of non-thermoplastic yarn may not have thefinished counter appearance of heat-set garments but in most cases thecombination of elastic inlay, knitted stitches and added courses willgive adequate shaping in the convex portions.

The garments of this invention may be made of very fine sheer yarns asin the manufacture of ladies stockings or they may be made of very muchcoarser yarns. The method of makinga garment with yarns of intermediatecoarseness is described in Example I.

Example I The method of making a typical garment of this invention, amens below-the-knee elastic stocking with an unturned welt and having aheel section in accordance with the invention, is given in detail below:

The machine chosen is the Elha model RME Special, a three-feed machine,one feed of which is constructed to inlay elastic yarn. This machine ismanufactured by Harry Lucas, Gadelander Strasse 24-26, Neumunster,Germany.

Starting with the separating courses, a 50 denier nylon yarn with turnsof S twist is introduced and 8 courses are knitted. During this periodthe left-hand elastic inlay feed earns, the right-hand knitting cams andthe elastic furnishing device are out of action. After the separatingcourses are knitted, the left-hand elastic inlay feed mechanismsconsisting of the jack draw down cam in the lower race, the sinkerretracting cam, the inlay needle draw down cam and the elastic inlayfinger are activated when the short butt needles have passed thelefthand inlay position and the cams are activated by the arrival of thelong butt needles. At the same time the clutch 6. for the elastic threadfurnisher is activated to furnish about 8 inches of elastic thread toalternating selected needles on each revolution of the cylinder. Theelastic thread might be a 280 denier Lycra or another spandex yarn.

Shortly before the long butt needles have reached the right-hand feedthe operating cams for this feeding station are activated. Theright-hand sinker cam is retracted, the right-hand stitch cam isadvanced against the short butt needles and the two right-hand yarnfingers are introduced. The knitting yarns chosen might be one end of70/2 ply Superloft nylon in the first yarn finger and one end of 200denier nylon in the 2nd yarn finger. The 200 denier nylon yarn is addedat the right-hand feed to produce a firm roll-resistant top welt. Thestitch size is controlled by the right-hand welt control cam.

The firmness and roll-resistance is further improved by the retractionof the center feed clear cam and the simultaneous introduction of thejack clear cam in the lower race.

This activation occurs again at the juncture of the short and long buttneedles and produces a straight riblike fabric with tuck stitches onalternating needles.

As the long butt needles approach the center feeding station the 50denier nylon separating yarn is exchanged for a 70/ 2 denier Superloftyarn and with this final action the welt make-up is completed. Theelastic furnishing device continues to provide about 8 inches of elasticyarn per cylinder revolution until about 50 rounds of elastic yarn havebeen knitted and the welt has been complete-d.

Just prior to the completion of the welt, the graduating device of theelastic furnisher is activated. The elastic yarn feeding speed isincreased slightly to provide about 9 inches of elastic yarn perrevolution of the knitting machine cylinder to accommodate the normalcalf dimen- SlOIlS.

At the completion of the welt, the pattern wheel is introduced on thebutts of the short butt needles. At the point where the short buttneedles meet the long butt needles, the pattern wheel slides toward thecylinder and depresses every other needle. At the same time the jackdraw down cam is taken out of action and all needle selection for theelastic inlay thread is accomplished by the pattern wheel depressingevery other needle. In View of the fact that the cylinder contains anodd number of needles, the inlay needles chosen change on everyrevolution of they cylinder from odd to even numbers and from even toodd numbers.

At the completion of the welt, the jack clear cam is deactivated in thelower race and this leaves all needles in tuck position. The 70/2Superloft yarn at the center feeding station is taken" out of actionconverting the machine to single feed operation. At the same time thestitch graduating device is activated increasing the stitch size of thecalf area slightly. As soon as the calf see tion has been completed, thesize of the knitted. stitch is gradually reduced until the desiredstitch density is produced in the ankle area. The speed of the elasticfurnishing device is gradually reduced until about 6 inches of spandexare supplied per cylinder revolution in the ankle area. The transitionfrom the welt fabric to the ankle fabric covers approximately 380 roundsof the cylinder.

At this point the speed of the elastic furnisher is increased slightlyto furnish about 6 /2 inches of spandex per cylinder revolution. Thecenter feed clear cam is advanced sufiiciently to clear the long b'uttneedles. only. At the same time additional 70/ 2 Superloft is introducedon all long buttneedles through the introduction of the splicing yarnfinger controlled from a cam section attached to the outer sinker ring.This cam section deactivates the splicing finger on all short buttneedles leaving a floated yarn section on the inside of the fabric whichis later removed. This addition of the 70/ 2 Superloft on all long buttneedles is continued for about courses and provides sufficient fabric toform awell fitting heel pocket. To seal off the trimmed ends of the heelfabric courses, I prefer to provide tuck stitches on the first and lastneedle or groups of tuck and float stitches alternating at the beginningand the end of the heel pocket panel.

After the completion of the heel pocket panel, the speed of the elasticfurnishing device is reduced slightly to provide about 6 inches ofelastic yarn per cylinder revolution. The center feed clear cam and thesplicing finger with the 70/2 Superloft are taken out of action and themachine continues to knit the foot fabric in the same manner as thatused during the knitting of the calf and ankle fabric.

When about 100 courses beyond the heel pocket panel are completed, theelastic furnishing device is activated and the amount of elastic yarnper cylinder revolution is gradually increased to reach about 7 inchesby the time 120 additional rounds of foot fabric have been knitted andthe ring toe position in the stocking has been reached.

At this point the center clear cam is introduced again. At the pointWhere the long butt needles are cleared the 70/2 Superloft toe yarn isintroduced on the center feed. The pattern wheel and the left-handneedle draw down cam are taken out of action, the left-hand sinkercontrol cam is advanced and the elastic-yarn furnisher is deactivated.As the cylinder advances, the stitch cam and the yarn finger control camfor the right-hand feed are deactivated. The right-hand sinker cam ispushed in and this takes the right-hand feed out of action, but leavingthe knitting machine prepared to knit the ring toe fabric. When about 30courses are knitted, the main cam drum is moved again to prepare themachine for the manufacture of the toe fabric in the usual manner byreciprocation. The long butt needles are taken out of action and theclutch is engaged to put the cylinder into a reciprocating motion. Theup-pickers deactivate one short butt needle on each side of the shortbutt needle panel on each reciprocation of the cylinder. After about '36courses the needle dropper is introduced putting two short butt needlesinto action again on each reciprocation of the cylinder. The up-pickerscontinue to deactivate one short butt needle on each reciprocation.After about 36 courses have been knitted, the long butt needles arepulled into action by the wing cam, the clutch returns the cylinder intoa rotating movement and the loose course and the final rounds of themargin yarn are knitted in the conventional manner. After about 24courses, the 70/2 Superloft toe yarn is exchanged for the 50 deniernylon separating yarn and the stocking knitting cycle is completed. Thetoe may be closed by looping or sewing.

It should be pointed out that on this stocking the toe pocket wasknitted on the short butt needles. This manufacturing procedure placesthe toe closure of the stocking under the foot which is a very desirablefeature and eliminates the need for special attachments normally used onhosiery machines to place the toe closure under the foot.

Example II Typical of very fine ultra sheer garments of this inventionare the full length elastic ladies stockings which may be knit onvarious seamless hosiery machines equipped with auxiliary knittingstations. Two very popular machines of this type are the Scott &Williams KN-2 and the AMP machine which may be obtained fitted withelastic yarn inlay devices. For those familiar with the manufacture ofseamless hosiery, however, it will not be difficult to adapt a varietyof seamless machines to inlay elastic yarn and to manufacture elasticstockings with modified heel pockets in accordance with this inventionprovided at least two feeds are available in addition to the elasticyarn inlaying feed.

For the purpose of this example, the Scott & Williams AMP machineequipped with a suitable elastic furnishing device and modified incertain respects as explained herein so as to have an elastic inlay feedand two additional knitting feeds is used.

In the manufacturing process involved the machine is prepared to performthe first operation, the make-up of the fabric. At this point there areno stitches on the needles, the yarn has been taken out of action andthe previous stocking has dropped off the needles.

In the make-up operation, alternate knitting needles are raised intoknitting position through the activation of alternate cylinder jacks andintermediate jacks. The transfer jacks are pushed out into the spaces ofthe dcactivated knitting needles, the make-up yarn fingers of the centerfeed are dropped into action furnishing yarns to the knitting needlesselected as well as to the transfer jacks between these needles. For thepurpose of this description I have chosen 50 denier nylon yarns with 10turns S twist for the welt as well as the make-up yarns of the centerand the left-hand feed. As soon as the selected knitting needles andtransfer jacks have taken the make-up yarn, the transfer jacks arewithdrawn and the knitting needles are drawn down by the center stitchcam. As the cylinder advances toward the left-hand feed, the needleswith the make-up yarn are raised to a clear position, the make-up andwelt yarns of the left-hand feed are dropped into action and allknitting needles take yarn on the left-hand feed. All needles rise to atuck height after leaving the left-hand feed.

As the needles reach the selecting point again, the same alternatingneedles are selected to clear their stitches and take yarn on the centerfeed again, but without the activation of the transfer jacks. Theseneedles draw their yarn through the previous round when they pass thecenter stitch cam. As the cylinder advances, all needles clear theirstitches as they approach the left-hand feed. All needles take yarn onthe left-hand feed, they go down under the left-hand stitch cam andreturn to tuck position. At the completion of the second revolution allneedles are cleared by the jack raising cam. At this point the auxiliarymake-up yarns are taken out of action and the make-up is completed.

As the needles approach the selection point, all cylinder pattern jacksrise over the jack raising cam and all needles are cleared by theintermediate jack clearing cam before they reach the center feed. Atthis point the machine is prepared to knit the welt fabric whichconsists of approximately 420 courses.

After the completion of the welt fabric, the machine is prepared for thetransfer operation. Alternating cylinder jacks used for the make-upoperation are raised again bringing these needles into a clear positionthrough the intermediate jack clear cam.

The intervening low needles are raised by the movable end cam in theneedle race. At this point the transfer jacks have been moved out totheir transferring position where the bowls are directly over theneedles rising on the movable end cam. The needles pass through thetransfer jack bowls which are withdrawn as soon as the needle hooks havecleared the transfer jacks and this operation has transferred the firstcourse loops of the makeup to the alternating knitting needles. Thesealternating knitting needles are raised to a clear position where theyjoin the needles cleared by the intermediate jack clear cam. Thetransfer is completed and the knitting machine continues to knit withall needles on the center feed as well as the left-hand feed to producethe shadow welt which consists of approximately courses.

At the completion of the shadow welt the knitting machine is prepared toproduce the elasticized leg and foot portion of the elastic stocking.This preparation includes an exchange of yarns at the center feed, achange of stitch type and an exchange of yarns at the left-hand feed,and the activation of the controlled elastic furnishing device.

The selector drum is activated taking two racks on every revolution ofthe cylinder. The pattern is set to select odd needles in one round andeven needles in the next round. The selected needles remain in tuckposition until they reach the center clear cam which has been raised toa low clear position, The remaining needles are raised to a high clearposition through the action of the cylinder jacks and the intermediatejacks.

The yarn change on the center feed from the 50 denier nylon shadow weltyarn to the 30 denier nylon leg yarn takes place about needles prior tothe selecting point of the alternating needles when this pointapproaches the center feed. All needles take the 30 denier nylon legyarn and knit a conventional jersey fabric on that feed.

As the selecting point for alternating needles advances to the left-handfeed, the left-hand clear cam is taken out of action. The auxiliaryintermediate jack clear cam is left in clear position until theselecting point for alternating needles is reached and at that point theauxiliary intermediate jack clear cam is lowered to leave the needle ina tuck position. The alternating needles not controlled by the movementof the intermediate jacks are lowered to the level of the sinker nibs bya dividing cam placed between the left-hand clear cam and the left-handstitch cam. The elastic furnishing device is activated supplying theelastic yarn to the knitting. needles at a rate of about 10-11 incheslimp length for each revolution of the needle cylinder. The elastic yarnchosen for this example is a 100 denier spandex yarn, but experience hasshown this material to be inadequate in tensile strength when used institches alone to withstand the strain normally exerted on conventionalsheer stocking fabrics. Approximately 10 needles ahead of the selectingpoint for alternating needles operating in tuck position, the elasticyarn is introduced on the left-hand feed.

The 50 denier nylon yarn used in the shadow welt is not removed fromaction until the left-hand stitch cam is raised and the stitch formationon the left-hand feed is converted from a knitting position to a tuck orinlay position for the elastic yarn. At this time I have found it safeto remove the reinforcing shadow welt yarn on the left-hand feed, sincein every stitch in which elastic yarn is knitted there is also the 50denier nylon yarn.

The production of the elasticized leg. fabric continues forapproximately 340 courses with the elastic yarn furnisher providingabout 10-11 inches of elastic yarn per revolution of the cylinder.

During the next 720 courses the elastic yarn furnishing device graduallyreduces the amount of elastic yarn furnished to the needles until itfinally reaches about 6 inches per cylinder revolution in the anklearea.

.At the same time the fashioning device is activated lowering thecylinder and reducing the stitch size drawn by the knitting needlesgradually until the desired stitch density is reached in the ankle area.

Approximately 1000-1100 courses from the activation point of the elasticyarn furnishing device it is normally the custom to knit one of theconventional heel pockets by reciprocating the needle cylinder and theactivation of the needle pickers and the needle dropper.

This reciprocating operation, as has been indicated earlier, is thecause for many defects in elastic hosiery knitted on conventionalhosiery machines. It is even more subject to the creation of stockingdefects, mends and waste on multi-feed knitting machines such as the AMPKnitting Machine. I

When the left-hand feed is utilized for inlaying the elastic yarn in theheel section and the center feed is used for knitting the courses intowhich the elastic yarn is inlaid, there is normally no provision forknitting the extra courses in accordance with this invention on the AMPmachine. I have discovered, however, that the AMP machine may be changedso that such extra courses may be knitted through the modification ofcertain needle and sinker cam sections and the addition of an auxiliaryyarn feeding finger. Referring to FIGURE 9, the righthand stitch cam anormally used for the reverse stroke of a conventional heel or toeknitting operation is modified on its right side so as to be symmetricalwith the left side. At the same time an auxiliary raising cam b isprovided. Two other auxiliary cams are also provided; the cam c raisesthe needle group which has knit under stitch cam a and returns allneedles to their original race at the center feed. The other cam is thelow clear cam d which clears the latches of all .338 inch and .390 inchbutt needles but not the .300 inch, the .270 inch and the .240 inch buttlengths. In addition, an. auxiliary yarn feeding finger e is furnished.

This arrangement permits the introduction of an additional course orpart course and in reality convertsnormal 2-feed operation, one of whichis inlaying elastic yarn on the AMP machine to a 3feed operation two ofwhich are knitting.

In preparing for the heel pocket the speed of the elastic thread.furnisher is increased to supply about 7 inches of elastic yarn for eachrevolution of the cylinder to allow for the normal dimensionalrequirements in the heel and instep area.

Low clear cam d is introduced clearing the latches of all .338 inch and.390 inch butt needles except the tuck needles, i.e. long latch needles,but not the .300, .270 and .240 inch butt lengths. Intermediate jack camf is with drawn. As the cylinder. advances another yarn is introduced byauxiliary yarn feeding finger e. The yarn chosen might be a 20/2Superloft nylon yarn. This yarn finger performs the. function of asplicing yarn finger, that means, it provides a 20/2 Superloft nylonyarn to certain selected needles or needle groups, that. is the .338 and.390 inch 'butt needles.

Specifically, in this example, tucking is performed by the use of twolong latch needles at either end of the heel panel, each pair beingseparated by normal needles.

The needles are raised to receive yarn by low clear cam d. The stitchesare drawn by modified stitch cam a whereupon auxiliary cam c raises theneedle group to clear-cam 97 level at high clear and returns all needlesincluding the tuck needles to their original normal race at the centerfeed. All needles are cleared.

This modified 3-feed operation is continued for about 160 courses, andthe heel pocket is completed without interference of the normal knittingoperation at the center or the left-hand feed. The alternating needleselection and laying-in of the elastic thread is continued in the usualmanner.

After the heel section has been completed cam sections [1, b, c, d and fare returned to the original leg position and the auxiliary yarn feedingfinger 2 becomes inactive. The elastic thread furnishing device returnsto the ankle position providing about 6 inches of elastic thread percylinder revolution and this feeding position of the furnisher ismaintained for about 150 courses. At this point the thread furnishingspeed is gradually increased to provide about 8 /2 inches of elasticthread by the time about 100 additional courses have been completed andthe knitting machine is prepared to produce the ring toe stockingsection.

The ring toe fabric is produced with 50 denier nylon on both the centerand left-hand feeds. This means that both yarns used in the foot portionwill have to be exchanged and the stitch type on the left-hand feed willhave to be changed from tuck or inlay stitch to knitting stitch. Thecylinder pattern jacks are taken out of action and the selector drum isstopped. As the cylinder advances to the center feed the 30 denier nylonis replaced with the 50 denier nylon toe yarn about 10 needles beforethe selector drum has stopped to divide the needles. As the cylinderadvances to the left-hand feed the 50 denier nylon is introduced at thatposition. The auxiliary clear cam for the intermediate jacks on theleft-hand feed is raised to a high clear position and this action isfollowed by the raising of the left-hand clear cam. This Cam changetakes place on divided needles. In the final move the elastic yarn istaken out of action and the elastic thread furnishing device is stopped.

The knitting machine continues to knit in rotating position for about 8courses to complete the ring toe fabric.

In the conventional knitting process the machine would now produce a toepocket on the long butt needles to permit a toe closure under the foot.

In view of the fact that the heel pocket was knitted on the long buttneedles the toe section can now be knitted on the short butt needleswithout sacrificing the toe closure under the foot.

In preparing for the toe pocket the long butt needles are raised to beout of action. The clutch changes the cylinder from rotary toreciprocating motion. The center and left-hand clear cams move into lowclear position.

The left-hand and center reverse stroke needle lowering and raising camsare moved into action. The righthand reverse stroke stitch cam is movedinto action and the lowering cam is moved out of action. Finally theraising switch cam is moved out of action and the auxiliary raising camb is moved into action. The clutch shifts the cylinder movement fromrotary to a reciprocating movement. This completes the going into thetoe rack which prepares the knitting machine to knit the toe fabric onthe short butt needles. The machine stops with the short butt needles infront of the machine. The lefthand lifter is in position to engage thefirst two short butt needle butts when the cylinder makes its firstclockwise reciprocation. As the direction of the cylinder reverses theright-hand lifter deactivates two short butt needles from the oppositeneedle section. This deactivation of the short butt needles continuesuntil about /3 of all short butt needles remain active.

For the purpose of this example, I have chosen a conventional straightgore toe pocket. This calls for the activation of the needle dropper atthe time /3 of the short bu-tt needles are still active. When this pointof the toe pocket is reached the lifters are raised slightly todeactivate one needle only on each reciprocation. The activated dropperlowers 3 needles on each cylinder reciprocation. This action iscontinued until all short butt needles are returned to a knittingposition and the toe pocket has been completed. The clutch changes thecylinder movement from a reciprocating to a rotary movement. The drawdown cam returns all needles to an active knitting position. It is theusual practice to knit two courses of plain fabric with the toe yarnbefore the change is made to single feed knitting which is described indetail in the instruction manual for the AMP machine. It includes theeyelet closing procedure, the knitting of the loose course, the lopperrounds and the introduction of the margin yarn which is done in theconventional manner suggested by the manufacturer of the AMP machines.

The completed stocking is dropped out of knitting needles and is blowninto the receiver tube. The knitting process is completed and themachine returns to phase No. 1 to the make-up for a new stocking.

The preferred garments of this invention utilize elastic yarns which arethermoplastic, such as spandex. But other thermoplastic andnon-thermoplastic elastic yarns including natural and syntheticvulcanized rubber yarns and elastomeric forms of other polymers and/orcopolymers including but not restricted to those of the polyamide(nylon), halogenated polyalkylene, polyether and polyvinyl types aresuitable as the elastic yarns in the garments of this invention. It ispreferred to use these elastic yarns in multifilament form butmonofilament yarns are suitable and in some cases may be more readilyobtainable. It is also preferred to use such elastic yarns in the bareor uncovered condition but elastic yarns covered with one or morehelical or other extendable coverings are satisfactory. For purposes ofthis invention elastic yarn shall mean a yarn which is capable, afterbeing stretched momentarily to of its untensioned length, ofsubstantially returning to that untensioned length within a period oftwo minutes if unrestrained. This definition is intended to includeyarns which are not inherently elastic, that is, not of elastomericmaterial. For certain light garments where fit is the primaryrequirement such yarns which have the requisite elasticity because ofthe method of manufacture, arrangement or physical chemical or othertreatment are satisfactory. One should be careful, however, wherethermoplastic heat forming of the garment is involved that theelasticity of the yarn is not destroyed particularly where the yarn iselastic because it has been heat set in its manufacture in kinked,curled, twisted or other non-linear form. In such case, in heat-settingthe garment one should not exceed the temperature originally used inheat-setting the yarn.

It is not essential that the elastic yarn be inlaid in every course ofthe normal fabric for purposes of this invention, although in mostinstances that is preferred. The invention is, however, particularlyuseful in very fine garments where fit is the primary objective and insome instances the elastic yarn may be inlaid in as little as one coursein 10. Obviously, the effect of the elastic yarn is much greater when itis closer together in adjacent rounds and for some purposes such as intherapeutic garments which also may be very fine, it may be desirable toinlay elastic yarn in every course or in every second or third course.It is to be understood that in the convex portion where courses areadded, the elastic yarns will be still further separated.

With regard to the knitted structural yarns of the garments of thisinvention, all of the normally utilized yarns for knitted garments bethey natural or synthetic are suitable, thus silk, cotton, wool, rayon,nylon and the multitude of synthetic yarns are satisfactory for thegarments of the invention. When the garment is to be finally shaped bythermal setting, it will be necessary, of course, to use a thermoplasticyarn such as nylon or the like in the area to be thermally set. But inmany instances thermal setting is neither warranted nor required.Novelty yarns including various stretch yarns may be used as desired.Combinations of various yarns and combinations of various structures maybe used and such are included provided such garments include a circularknit seamless band including an elastic yarn inlaid in a generallyspiral course of jersey-knit stitches of the band and an additionalcourse of jersey-knit stitches between and separating adjacent turns ofthe spiral course in a portion less than the circumference of the band.

I claim:

1. A tubular elastic-yarn-containing garment comprising jersey-knitstitches of thermoplastic yarn forming spiraloid courses of said garmentincluding at least one area forming a convex projection from the tubularwalls of said garment, an elastic yarn extending in a spiraloid windinginlaid in at least one of said spiraloid courses of jersey-knitstitches, adjacent rounds of said elastic yarn being separated in saidconvex projection by at least one additional unreversed course ofstitches forming less than a complete circumferential round of saidgarment, said elastic yarn being present in greater amount in the roundspartially included in said convex projection than in the rounds closelyadjacent said projection but not included therein.

2. The article of claim 1 wherein the garment is a girdle.

3. The article of claim 1 wherein the garment is a brassiere.

4. The article of claim 1 wherein the garment is a joint protectivegarment.

5. The garment of claim 1 wherein the elastic yarn is a spandex yarn.

6. The article of claim 1 wherein the garment is a 13 14 foot coveringgarment and the convex projection is the 2,379,649 7/1945 Nebel 66169heel portion of said garment, 2,702,998 3/ 1955 Purcell 66l72 X2,707,381 5/1955 Lombardi 66-176 X References Cited by the Examiner2,949,023 8/ 1960 Holmes 66178 5 2,962,885 12/1960 Knohl 66-178 UNITEDSTATES PATENTS 2,980,981 4/1961 Reymes-Cole 61131...- 66186 X 45,7007/1891 Bourne 3,069,883 12/1962 Burleson et a1. 66--178 609,031 98 rick3,148,518 9/1964 P661 81 a1. 66-182 X 963,864 7/1910 Carter 66-190X1,800,992 4/1931 Fox 66190 10 FOREIGN PATENTS 1,928,072 9/1933 Parkinson66187 554 435 2 1957 Belgium 2,013,396 9/1935 Adamson 66-172 2,229,7901/1941 Beutler 61; a1. 66186 X DONALD PARKER, Examiner- 2,357,630 9/1944Cole 66-187 RUSSELL C. MADER, Examiner.

1. A TUBULAR ELASTIC-YARN-CONTAINING GARMENT COMPRISING JERSEY-KNITSTITCHES OF THERMOPLASTIC YARN FORMING SPIRALOID COURSES OF SAID GARMENTINCLUDING AT LEAST ONE AREA FORMING A CONVEX PROJECTION FROM THE TUBULARWALLS OF SAID GARMENT, AN ELASTIC YARN EXTENDING IN A SPIRALOID WINDINGINLAID IN AT LEAST ONE OF SAID SPIRALOID COURSES OF JERSEY-KNITSTITCHES, ADJACENT ROUNDS OF SAID ELASTIC YARN BEING SEPARATED IN SAIDCONVEX PROJECTION BY AT LEAST ONE ADDITIONAL UNREVERSED COURSE OFSTITCHES FORMING LESS THAN A COMPLETE CIRCUMFERENTIAL ROUND OF SAIDGARMENT, SAID ELASTIC YARN BEING PRESENT IN GREATER AMOUNT IN THE ROUNDSPARTIALLY INCLUDED IN SAID CONVEX PROJECTION THAN IN THE ROUNDS CLOSELYADJACENT SAID PORJECTION BUT NOT INCLUDED THEREIN.